Makeda’s Cuisine is the first (and only) destination for Ethiopian and Eritrean food in Eugene. Inspired to introduce the community to the culture and food of Ethiopia and Eritrea, Paolos and Eden, who prefer to not have their last names published, opened up Makeda’s Cuisine on Oct. 25. If you hadn’t heard of this truck before, despite it being open for a few months now, I don’t blame you — I accidentally stumbled on it during my search for Black-owned eateries, and no one I had asked had heard about it either. 

To open a business in the midst of this pandemic recession with, according to Eden, “no advertising besides word of mouth” and with only standard business information online is the textbook definition of an extremely risky start for an eatery. Yet, Makeda’s has somehow beaten the odds for the last four months.

The unassuming white truck parked at 725 Olive St. serves both Ethiopian and Eritrean food. Eden said the two countries have “basically the same food.” The primary seasoning heavily used in the cuisine is berbere, which is in most dishes. Makeda’s berbere consists of turmeric, cumin, cardamom and pink sea salt, but berbere can also include other spices such as chili pepper, coriander, garlic and fenugreek.

If you enjoyed Addis Ethiopian in Springfield (which closed on Feb. 26), you’re in for a pleasant surprise from Makeda’s. The menu has meat, vegetarian and vegan options, with weekly specials available on a rotating basis. All of the entrees are served with injera, a spongy and sour-fermented flatbread that the couple makes themselves. Injera is made out of teff flour, so it’s gluten-free, Eden said. 

Classics on their small menu include beef tibs and doro wot. “Tibs” refers to sauteed meat chunks. Makeda’s beef tibs are top sirloin steak with caramelized onions, seasoned with berbere plus other spices, while doro wot is chicken stew seasoned with Ethiopian butter, berbere and other spices.

You can order the beef tibs spicy or not spicy, but if you can handle spice I highly recommend getting it spicy. The heat that accompanies the berbere spice isn’t the type of spice to immediately light your mouth on fire, but it gradually grows while also lending itself to other flavors in the spice mix as it subsides. Plus the injera serves as a vessel for soaking up the sauce and a temporary source of relief after eating all that spice. 

Past specials included Ethiopian burgers, pasta, gomen (Ethiopian-style collard greens) and chicken tibs to give people something new to try each time. The chicken tibs, a rotating special, is very similar to the beef tibs so, depending on availability, either is a good choice. 

Regular items on Makeda’s menu include temtumo, a vegetarian dish with red lentils and caramelized red onions spiced with berbere, and alicha, a vegan dish with cabbage, potatoes, carrots, olive oil and chilis. Both are available as individual dishes or as a combo, which is a half portion of each served together. 

The temtumo has a stronger berbere spice presence than the alicha, and its consistency is similar to a thick porridge. The alicha is chunkier, comparatively, with large chunks of potato and carrot over the injera. 

One of the best dishes on their menu are the sambusas, which are crunchy, triangular packets of dough filled with red lentils, black pepper, onions and garlic. The crunch that accompanies the smooth, savory filling inside is both satisfying and delicious — plus, since they’re not as heavily spiced, it’s a relief for your tastebuds.

Overall, everything is quite good for its value, portion and taste, especially if you enjoy heavy spices or are looking for something more texturally interesting to try. Makeda’s is now the only Ethiopian restaurant in the county. 

There’s heart and genuine joy present in Eden and Paolos when talking about their food and interacting with their customers. As second generation Ethiopians, the two were taught everything they make by their mothers, and their love of food was the original inspiration for wanting to run an eatery. After trying to open an eatery for the past five years, they finally made Makeda’s a reality last year, and it’s a much-appreciated addition to Eugene’s food scene.

If you’re looking for a high quality lunch that is something you may have not had much of, I recommend you check out Makeda’s Cuisine — you’ll definitely be able to taste why they’re still kicking.