With sun-kissed, sculpted bodies cutting through crystal waves, the laid-back surfing culture and its aura of “coolness,” makes most non-surfing mortals sigh with awe and tinged jealousy. With such revered cultural appreciation for the sport, it’s amazing more young people don’t flock to shorelines, boards in hand. But, with potential shark attacks, drownings and injuries, many students never try the sport.
Nonetheless, Kelsey Bowen, a University sophomore and co-coordinator for EMU Club Sports Surf Club, encourages newcomers and surfer-wannabes to take the plunge.
“It’s actually a lot safer than people think,” she said.
Raised in Portland, Bowen always loved the water. An avid swimmer and lifeguard, Bowen swam in a relay across the English Channel when she was only a teen. Growing up, Bowen’s father, a former coastal lifeguard, pointed out different currents in the ocean and taught her what to watch out for. On her 17th birthday, Bowen and her brother rented boards and surfed for her first time. After surfing one more time, Bowen bought all the necessary surfing gear because “it was so much fun.”
However, other surfers say renting a board and entering the surf isn’t
always the safest idea.
“Surfing is kind of hard if you don’t know what to do,” said senior Ryan Osburn, who taught himself how to surf six years ago outside Cannon Beach.
Osburn later enrolled in lessons while vacationing in Hawaii. He said lessons can help teach potential surfers important techniques.
“It helps to have someone who can actually push you into a wave so you can see what it’s like,” he said.
Bowen, who offers lessons to club newcomers, agreed. She said a designated coach will start beginners on the beach; lay the board down; teach them how to lay,
paddle and stand up; and take them into the water.
Still, beginners may encounter some rude awakenings when deciding to dive into the waters of the Oregon coast. Freezing water temperatures may send a few squeamish swimmers back to shore making a full body wet suit mandatory. The full uniform includes boots, gloves and sometimes even a cap.
The Oregon coast also hosts some of the strongest and most unpredictable currents around. Bo Hamer, a sophomore art major, remembers when he and a friend were caught at sea because of high swells and almost needed to call the Coast Guard in.
“Half of surfing is just be able to survive, especially in Oregon. The waves and current are so strong and can change really quickly on you,” Hamer said.
For this reason, Bowen strongly suggests surfing in groups. She said surfing is dangerous because you have to know the currents, the right conditions and when it’s time to stop.
The hottest places to surf along the Oregon coast are Indian Beach and Short Sands, located near Cannon Beach, and Agate Beach, near Newport. The Surf Club will hold its annual camping trip this spring at Beverly Beach, another frequently visited location.
For Hamer, the best places will always be closest his home in Seaside. He said a perfect day of surfing in Seaside “would be a sunny day in September. There’d be an east wind, probably 5- or 6-foot waves, and (I) would just be out there with friends, catching lots of waves.”
A whole new wave
Daily Emerald
April 19, 2005
University student Liisa Heinonen frequents the South Jetty of Florence. She has been surfing the Oregon coast for two years.
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