Well-prepared Middle Eastern food has a special poignancy; the rice is buttery and covered by a crunchy golden crust, the hummus is laden by a smooth garlic and olive oil taste and the beef kebabs have a distinct zing.
But locking in this cuisine’s flavors can be tricky. Timing, temperatures, ingredients and care all play crucial roles in mastering the art of Middle Eastern recipes.
Here, I will take you step by step through three of the most loved recipes from the Arab countries. First, you’ll discover how to perfect tadeeg, a crispy crust that forms at the bottom of a pot of rice, for a creation of basmati with sliced potatoes. Next, I’ll show you how to make real, ethnic hummus (you’ll never buy the packaged kind again), perfect with warm pita bread. Finally, you’ll learn how to take charge of the grill and make juicy beef kebabs, which are delicious wrapped in flat chewy lavash bread and fresh greens.
* Potato Rice with Tadeeg
Basmati, the rice used in this recipe, is most notable for its aromatic, nut-like flavor and scent. It is small, yet long-grained, and is sold at most grocery stores. This recipe calls for turmeric, a spice which gives the rice a yellow color and an aromatic orange-ginger scent. Turmeric can be found in the spice section of most grocery stores.
1 large russet potato
2 cups basmati rice
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
7 cups water
dash of salt
dash of pepper
dash of garlic salt
dash of turmeric
6 tablespoons butter
Slice potato into thick slices across, leaving skin. In a heavy, nonstick pan, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil and add the potato slices. Sprinkle potatoes with salt and pepper and fry one side only until the cooked side is golden. Set aside. In a large pot, bring lightly salted water to a boil. Add rice, bring back to a boil and lower heat to medium. Boil for about 5 minutes, then taste the rice — it should be soft on the outside but crunchy on the inside. Drain rice into a colander. Rinse rice with cold water. Dry off pot, pour 2 tablespoons olive oil on bottom of pot and place potatoes on top, uncooked side down. Add rice in three layers, adding 2 tablespoons butter (cut into chunks) and a dash of turmeric after each layer. Sprinkle top of rice with garlic salt, pepper and turmeric. Place paper towel sheets on top of pot, cover with lid and cook on low heat for 35-40 minutes. Rice is done when paper towel becomes wet.
Tip: Adding extra-virgin olive oil at the bottom of the pan is the most essential step for a crisp tadeeg, as is keeping the heat low to ensure the crust won’t burn.
* Hummus
This dip from the Mediterranean and Middle East regions has become increasingly
popular in the United States with packaged flavored varieties. This recipe guarantees an original homemade taste. Tahini, which gives hummus its toasted, nutty flavor, is a paste derived from ground sesame seeds. You can buy tahini at high-end or specialty grocery stores. White pepper comes from ripe peppercorns which have been shelled of their skin (black pepper is the result of dried, unshelled peppercorns). Paprika, a spice made from ground and dried chili peppers, is used simply to add color. White pepper and paprika can be found at most grocery stores.
2 cans chickpeas (reserve 4 tablespoons chickpea juice)
6 cloves garlic
4 tablespoons tahini
1-2 tablespoons lemon juice
2-3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
pinch of salt
pinch of white pepper
1/4 cup black olives
1 bunch parsley
pinch of paprika
Empty drained chickpeas into a food processor and add 4 tablespoons of chickpea juice from the cans. Blend with garlic, tahini, salt and pepper, adding lemon juice a little at a time until smooth. Scrape onto a platter, sprinkle with paprika, drizzle with olive oil and decorate with black olives and parsley. Serve with heated pita bread.
Tip: Begin blending with 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and taste hummus before adding a second tablespoon. The flavor should have a slight citrus tone, but not be overpowered by the lemon.
* Beef Kebabs
A sprinkle of sumac is recommended here to add a real zip to kebabs. This spice comes from the fruit of a wild Mediterranean bush, and is often used as a souring agent in Arab cooking, as is lemon and vinegar. It can be found at specialty international or Middle Eastern grocery stores. Lavash is a soft, flat, unleavened bread of Armenian origin which comes in the form of a large sheet; most upscale and high-end grocery stores carry it.
2 pounds ground beef (15 percent fat)
1 onion
1 egg
pinch of salt
pinch of pepper
pinch of allspice
1 package lavash bread
parsley, green onions, and sumac (to serve)
3-4 flat, 20-centimeter, stainless steel skewers
Grate onion into the meat. Add egg, salt, pepper and allspice and knead together. Cover with wax paper and let stand for 30 minutes. Wet hands and mold meat into long, thin shapes around skewers. Grill about 5 minutes on each side. Add a portion of the bread to the grill for the last 2 minutes to heat. Place kebabs on a platter on top of warmed bread. Serve as a sandwich with green onions, parsley and a sprinkling of sumac and wrapped in remaining and warmed bread.
Tip: The secret to a great kebab is making sure the meat stays put on the skewers. It can take some practice, but be sure to pack meat on good and tight before taking it to the grill.
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