In a town where community interest in rock climbing is
as apparent as the popularity
of the Yankees in New York,
a variation of the sport is
gaining ground.
That variation comes in the form of a chilly endeavor known as ice climbing. Many area rock climbers turn to ice for variety, a bit of fun or a new challenge. Others are attempting to broaden their mountaineering skills and become more competent on mountain routes in cold weather.
“Usually the way people get into ice climbing is that they get into rock climbing and then learn the beauty of the ice,” Michael Strong, director of Outdoor Pursuits and instructor of the OP ice climbing class, said.
The two sports do have their similarities. Both require a sense of balance and the ability to move on a vertical plane.
“Rock climbing and ice climbing have some things in common in terms of balance and movement, but other than the gymnastic part they are quite different,” well-known mountain guide and ice climber Jim Frankenfield said.
Some of the differences are fairly obvious — one is on rock, the other on ice — but others aren’t as apparent. Take, for instance, the types of balance they require.
“The neat thing about ice climbing from a balance
perspective is that ice climbers are creating their own balance by the way they put the ice holds into the ice,” Strong said, who has been ice climbing for 23 years.
According to Frankenfield, another difference is in the level of each sport’s difficulty.
“Ice climbing is more challenging in terms of placing protection points and also because the medium is never quite the same,” Frankenfield said. “One route can be very different in different conditions, which isn’t true of rock.”
Still, many climbers recommend learning the basics by starting with rock climbing. Ice climbing prospects should also get proper instruction, learn about anchor placement and start slowly with a more experienced person. Those interested in climbing can take a class, a guided expedition with a group like Timberline Mountain Guides in Bend (http://www.timberlinemtguides.com) or a one-on-one
tutorial with an experienced
ice climber.
“One could certainly go straight into ice climbing, but proficient rope work is fundamental for safety, particularly with all the sharp, pointy equipment involved in ice climbing,”
five-year ice climber and
University graduate student Sean
Bemis said. “So, for most people
it would be wise to become confident handling ropes (and) climbing local rock crags before climbing any ice.”
Anyone willing to learn and practice ice climbing has the ability to do well. It isn’t reserved for the abnormally large or small individual, but accessible for many body types.
“One nice thing about ice climbing is that size doesn’t matter. I’ve climbed with a couple big, burly guys that weighed 250 pounds without any problem,” Bemis said. “All it physically requires is moderate upper-body strength — particularly in the forearms — and an ability to function efficiently in the cold weather.”
The one drawback to the
sport is that most decent
ice climbing comes only at the
end of a lengthy drive. In Oregon, most ice climbers head to
Mount Hood or Dillard
Glacier in the Three Sisters
Wilderness area, where climbers are lowered into crevasses
to practice.
Those who are willing to drive farther — to places like Banff,
Alberta, Telluride, Colo., and
Icicle Creek, Wash., — will
be pleased with the quality of
their climbing. Banff in
particular seems popular with local ice climbers; Strong said it is a good place for both beginners and experienced climbers to have a good time.
Those interested in ice climbing should be aware the sport doesn’t come cheap. On top of warm insulating clothing, climbers need a helmet and harness, a set of ice tools, crampons (metal devices with pointed cleats), carabineers, ice screws, anchors and a pair of stiff boots.
“You can easily spend upward of $800 to $1000 to get started and have some good equipment,” Strong said.
For those who love it, the cost
is worth the dent to the
banking account.
“There’s a great mix of companionship and individuality that comes on any major ice climb,” Bemis said. “You and your climbing partner have to have a lot of trust in each other, but when you’re climbing, it’s you and the ice, with one clear immediate goal. The focus it helps you find
is amazing.”

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