Opinion: Thrifting is in, but so are outrageous money grabs
———-
Shopping secondhand was once seen by wider society as unfashionable or as a last resort to save money. However, thrifting has become a major trend in the last few years, especially among Gen Zers.
Thrifting is more sustainable than shopping from the typical clothing retailers and a way to save money, which are both important for many people. There’s also the possibility of finding one-of-a-kind, vintage or valuable pieces when sifting through racks and bins. Most thrift and vintage stores source their items through donations or wholesaling, which means that almost anything could be in the mix.
It’s also an opportunity to develop a unique fashion style and can lead to artistic inspiration. Elle Bisheimer, a UO student and seller of upcycled thrift and vintage clothing, thinks it’s a unique creative outlet.
“There are many people who are very passionate about sustainability and driven to innovate what we define as fashion,” Bisheimer said.
Sometimes, the items in second-hand shops are more curated, but in others, it’s more of a free-for-all. A prime example of this is the Goodwill bins. The bins are set up with the intention of letting people make discoveries for themselves. It’s also usually the last stop before clothing is sent to the landfill, meaning that any purchase from the bins stops more clothing waste.
Since thrifting has become a known trend, the big thrift retailers like Goodwill have faced changes. At locations across the country, people have noticed prices going up, making thrifting less convenient and affordable than it used to be.
“One of the criticisms that can get lost is the role of Goodwill and how they have started uncharging and monitoring their high value products even though their donations are free,” Bisheimer said. “It’s really always best to turn locally.”
While most shopping at secondhand stores is done for personal purchases, there’s a growing community of people who go to thrift stores with the intention of generating personal income. Some sellers like Bisheimer often add personal artistic flair and design elements to the pieces.
“I get so excited and inspired every time I find an upcycling artist. I’ve seen people get really inventive with materials,” Bisheimer said.
Many resellers go through thrift shops and bins for the nicest items, which is admirable, but some of them then turn around and put the same clothing pieces online for eye-watering price markups. Even clothing that’s not considered high-end or is noticeably damaged is still put on sale for a significant price hike.
“Upcharging is not great at all. There’s not a scarcity of items,” Bisheimer said.
On top of that, the practice of buying cartfuls of clothes at thrift stores can lead to overconsumption, both on the part of the sellers and their customers. While it’s still better than buying new clothing, buying products on such a massive scale can lead to bad habits and decision-making.
“It’s a replacement for continuing mass consumption patterns. If you really use those pieces that’s wonderful, but on a larger scale we need to create an ideology shift towards smaller closets,” Bisheimer said. “People are sweeping out the thrift stores and disregarding the fact that they don’t need all of that.”
Over the years, I’ve found some really awesome things at thrift stores that don’t fit me or aren’t what I’m looking for, and I like to think I’m leaving them for someone else. However, I’m now haunted by the idea that someone on Depop, a popular online clothing resale platform, is selling said item for way too much money.
Resellers who do try to keep their prices more reasonable often encounter people who purchase from them and then resell it themselves, making the second-hand market even more of a never-ending cycle of consumption.
“A lot of people try to play it off like they’re into an item, buy it, then go and resell it within days of receiving it for much higher prices, it’s so disappointing,” Bisheimer said.
Thrifted clothing has shifted from being a class marker to a badge of individuality and fashion-forwardness. I’ve been happy to see the growing popularity of sustainable clothing practices, but some resellers’ opportunistic and purely profit-driven actions have gotten tiresome.
“It does feel like an extension of a get rich quick scheme where they’re finding a way to get materials cheaply and distribute them at ease,” Bisheimer said.
It’s unsurprising to see this emerge as part of thrifting culture, but it’s still obnoxious to navigate for casual customers and other sellers. Given the capitalist, money-hungry system we all inhabit, it may be a futile wish to see these types of sellers fade away, but I’ll wish for it anyway.