“We are in view of the ocean, this great Pacific Ocean, which we have been so long anxious to see, and the roaring or noise made by the waves breaking on the rocky shores … may be heard distinctly,”
— William Clark, in a November 6,
1805 journal entry
Stretching some 300 miles, the Oregon coast is considered to be one of the most beautiful and accessible coastlines in America. All beaches are public property, and the many scenic vistas that scatter the Coast Highway offer incredible views of jagged rocks, dunes and sandy beaches.
Only 60 miles from Eugene, the Central Oregon Coast offers a quick chance to enjoy scenic wonders or lounge on a warm beach. April and May are ideal months to make the drive. The flowers are in full bloom, and many broadleaf trees have their new leaves. Highway 126 West winds through farmland and the coast range, eventually ending in Florence.
Old town Florence has many art galleries and specialty shops to peruse. A leisurely stroll to the docks reveals restored antique sailboats and pleasure boats. It is not uncommon to see couples strolling hand-in-hand down the street. The residents are also proud of their most popular attraction, the Sea Lion Caves.
“We are proud to say that we are in the Guinness Book of World Records as the largest sea caves in the world, and the sea lions are pretty cool, too,” Sea Lion Caves General Manager Hod Johnson said.
The Sea Lion Caves is located 11 miles north of Florence, and it is home to more than 200 wild Stellar Sea Lions, the only ones of their kind on the North American coast. Entry costs $7.50 but offers the chance to view the sea lions in their natural environment.
Thirteen miles north of Florence is the Heceta Head Lighthouse. The parking lot is at Devils Elbow State Park, located next to a small beach and tidepools. After exploring the pools, it is an easy hike through part of a coastal old growth forest that leads to the lighthouse. There are benches along the trail to look over the vast Pacific.
Volunteers give guided tours through the lighthouse and keeper’s quarters. It is said that Rue, the spirit who haunts the keeper’s house, can often be heard stepping through the attic or turning the lights on and off. The grassy yard of the house overlooking the ocean is a scenic place for lunch or a mid-afternoon nap before continuing the drive north.
The highest overlook on the Oregon coast is located at Cape Perpetua, five miles north of Heceta Head Lighthouse. The interpretive center is open until 5 p.m. and has a large display of Native American artifacts and antique logging equipment. A small theater features shows throughout the day about Oregon coast history and wildlife.
Binoculars are available to view California gray whales migrating north in April and May. Traveling two to three miles off the coast, the whales are easily seen as they “spout,” sending a burst of water eight feet into the air.
“Right now were seeing them travel in groups of four or five,” said Don Burnett, a volunteer at Cape Perpetua. “We also have resident whales that stay here year-round and can put on quite a show at times.”
“I was up here last year and saw a group of porpoises traveling with a mother whale and her calf,” said Laurie Emmerson of Yreka, Calif. “It was just the most amazing thing I’ve seen up here.”
Cape Perpetua has 24 miles of trails that wind through virgin old-growth forest.
“There are trees 24 feet around,” Burnett said.
Guided hikes are offered at various times with explanations of local ecology and history.
Fifty miles north of Florence is Newport, formerly home to the late Keiko the killer whale of “Free Willy” fame. The Oregon Coast Aquarium housed this mammoth mammal for two years before scientists and
researchers moved him to Iceland. His former tank has been transformed into aqua tubes where visitors can walk through a variety of ocean ecosystems, including one teeming with sharks.
Admission to the Oregon Coast Aquarium is about $10, which includes access to extensive exhibits featuring jellyfish and seahorses as well as native species of fish, birds and mammals.
The Mark Hatfield Marine Science Center has a suggested donation of $4 and is located around the corner from the aquarium. The center is part of Oregon State University’s marine sciences program and is home to a variety of tanks and hands-on exhibits. The octopus tank is a family favorite and thrills children who place their faces against the tank.
Newport’s historic bayfront is an artist’s gallery of murals and shops along a one-mile stretch of waterfront. This may be the only place to view “Al” the half-man, half-alligator, now preserved in one of the bayfront gift shops. The Wax Works and Ripley’s Believe It or Not are also interesting attractions. Restaurants are plentiful along this stretch and offer fresh seafood and chowder.
“I like to fly kites and get my toes wet, and sometimes I fall and get wet but that’s OK because mommy has more clothes for me,” Madelyne Fitts, 5, of Milwaukie, Ore., said about her time on the beach.
Whether skipping class or looking for a weekend adventure, a drive to the Oregon coast can make a memorable trip. Just remember to pack a wind breaker and a change of shoes.
Sheldon Traver is a freelance reporter for the Emerald.