I’ve got a secret: In the center of downtown Eugene’s gritty and neon bar scene a new eatery has slipped in silently.
High ceilinged, streaming with light and sprinkled with metropolitan ambiance, it seems wholly out-of-place just a stone’s throw from the studied, punk rock mustiness of John Henry’s or lounge-glam of Jameson’s.
If that sounds like an odd-man-out situation destined for failure it isn’t – Davis’ Restaurant & Bar at 94 W. Broadway walks the line between pricey, upscale urbanity and affordable hometown charm with ease, and the food is terrific.
Apparently, the secret got out fast.
Friday night, less than two weeks after opening, Davis’ was hopping, and a table for two was a twenty minute wait. Fortunately, the large central bar had space for sipping cocktails before the meal and even more spaces for bigger parties to lounge around a coffee table on stylish sofas.
Bar service was prompt, juice mixers were all fresh-squeezed and house specialties played up to that strength. The bar menu notably includes the “Por Vida” a rendition of Café Soriah’s notorious off-the-menu lime, Stoli Vanil and pineapple concoction known as a “PVK.” This inkblot-test of a cocktail tastes like any number of other things, depending on the drinker, but I personally think it tastes like a key lime pie fused with the buttery vanilla of a lemon bar.
The menu breaks down into two different categories: expensive and luxurious entrées like steak and salmon (all of which look delicious but nearly unattainable), and cheaper and smaller sandwiches, burgers, salads and bistro faire. Most students will be choosing from the latter category, and that’s not really a sacrifice. All these dishes are generally $10 to $12 and come in half sizes for half the price.
The on-the-house toasted focaccia with a warmed pat of butter was only a delicious glimpse of things to come.
My tomato and arugala salad, a perfectly ripe, peeled tomato on a bed of peppery greens, was perfectly seasoned and dressed with a goat-cheese sauce. The house salad, a good benchmark for most restaurants, was also well-outfitted with vegetables and the obligatory spring mix greens.
Unfortunately, I was unable to order for myself one of the most alluring dishes on the menu because my dinning companion managed to express interest first. Her wild mushroom pot pie with a massive, flaky puff pastry crust crowning it like a French chef’s hat overshadowed my grilled chicken salad sandwich, which I felt had a bit too much celery. The few bites of pot pie I managed the wrestle away were rich and savory, but clean and fresh.
The pot pie might have won my heart completely but not for Davis’ fantastic “frites” which come as an option with sandwiches and burgers.
I could barely contain myself around these thick sliced, crunchy Belgian-style fries. Perfectly salty and golden brown, they are a must have.
Service at Davis’ was warm and considerate, but not cloyingly insistent, once again striking the right balance for a perfect night out.
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Davis’ Restaurant and Bar
(541) 485-1124
94 W Broadway
Eugene, OR 97401
What: American food with an emphasis on Pacific Northwest regional food and some
international influences.
How much: Prices range from special occasion to everyday affordable.
Reservations available for parties of six or more.