There’s only one place in Oregon that has a Wombat, a Monument, a Red Ryder Buttress and a Little Three Fingered Jack. Located about two and a half hours from Eugene, Smith Rock has them all — and more than 1,400 climbing routes that provide plenty of climbing options for both dedicated and novice climbers.
Smith Rock became a state park in 1960 and has since been a big public draw for its incredible outdoor experiences. In addition to climbing, visitors can hike, kayak, mountain bike, horseback ride and camp within
the park.
Smith Rock sits on 651 acres of the Oregon high desert plateau at about 3,000 feet above sea level. Visually, it’s a small version of
the Southwest, with towering, sand-colored rocks and shrubbery that dots the ground.
In the canyon, visitors might see prairie
falcons, deer, river otters, beavers and even golden eagles.
“Its name pretty much explains what it looks like,” freshman Carolyn Bee said. “It’s literally a huge hunk of rock in the middle of nowhere with people climbing all over
the place.”
Veteran climber Evan Smith, who has been to Smith Rock more than 40 times, said the park is one of the more beautiful locations in the state.
“(It has) a beautiful winding river with giant pillars of rock sticking out, lots of sage, buffalo, horses and cows nearby,” Smith said.
Spring and fall are the most popular times for climbing, as the winter and summer seasons bring some unfavorable temperatures to the park. As far as climbing routes go, the options are endless. The park has thousands of bolted routes for sport climbing that are more convenient and safer for climbers. Bolted climbing also allows climbers to attempt harder routes because their protection is already built into the rock.
The levels of the climbs also vary in difficulty, from easy routes such as Bits and Pieces to more challenging ones such as the nationally famous Chain Reaction.
“I had never gone climbing before, not even in a gym, so I was a little intimidated,” Bee said. “But they have so many routes there that anyone can find something they
can climb.”
Other than climbing, many visitors come to the park to enjoy or photograph the scenery; others visit Smith Rock to go hiking or mountain biking.
For individuals who choose to hike, bike or climb for the whole day, the park has an on-site campground that provides a place to sleep in close proximity to the rocks.
Both the park and campground are open year-round, and a $3 day-use permit is
required for each vehicle. A yearly permit is available for $25, according to www.smithrock.com. The campsites fill up on a first come first served basis. Overnight camping vehicles are not allowed and
reservations aren’t accepted. Smith said the one downfall to the campground is that
people can’t cook at their campsites because campfires aren’t allowed.
“It is pretty much a place to stay for climbers, not campers,” Smith said.
Whether individuals go to hike, climb, camp or experience the park’s many other pleasures, visitors
will be in for a unique and entertaining
experience.
“I’ve only been to a few places in Oregon, but I feel confident in saying that Smith is probably one of the best places to climb in Oregon. There are tons of routes that people of all skill levels can climb on,” Bee said. “The rock is also nice and smooth, unlike other places, so your hands aren’t too strained when you climb.”
Smith agreed that the park has its perks.
“It is my home climbing rock one of the best in the nation,” Smith said.

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