What makes a climbing gym? Is it a vast selection of routes for climbers to choose from? A friendly staff ready to help? A bar serving cold lagers and IPAs on tap to help get you over a climb you slipped on? If you picked all three, then you’re in luck.
The Circuit Bouldering Gym, exclusively located in Oregon, has five locations: southwest Portland, northeast Portland, Tigard, Bend and Eugene. Their doors first opened in 2005 at their SW Portland location and on Nov. 21, 2024, the Eugene Circuit was born — only a few blocks west from the University of Oregon campus.
With a team of 15 people, the Eugene Circuit is one of the largest locations, featuring over 200 bouldering routes for climbers of all abilities and more than 25 new routes set each week.
If you didn’t grow up rock climbing or weren’t born a mountain goat, then you might be unfamiliar with what “bouldering” means in the climbing community. Bouldering is a form of rock climbing without a harness, consisting of short routes that vary in difficulty.
Each level is graded on the Vermin scale, more commonly known as the V-scale, where the easiest climbs start at V0 and work their way up to the hardest level — one that seems like only professional climbers can stomach, V17. This humbling yet helpful scale enables someone to interpret a climb, understand what it will look and feel like before they get on the wall.
To start bouldering, feasible routes are necessary, ones that climbers of all shapes and sizes can handle. The Circuit takes all of that into account, focusing on inclusivity for its community.
Each route is carefully planned, tested by employees and given thoughtful grading to help climbers out. By the end of setting a segment, you are left with a colorful, chaotic wall made up of oddly shaped holds, some the size of a basketball and others that you can barely fit your pinky on.
“Bouldering makes you challenge your brain in a different way,” Maddy Castleberry, who has been coming to the circuit since August, said. “You’re focused on one problem that’s right in front of you and you have to be fully focused, or else you’ll fall.”
After your forearms have begun to cramp and you scaled all the climbs you were hoping to do, enjoy a cold one from their very own bar. There are four rotating taps featuring beers from local breweries. Currently, they have a Czech Pilsner, Hanzo Japanese Lager, Rain Gauge IPA and a light pale ale.
Get a drink or don’t get a drink; the sociable staff and extensive, vibrant walls add to a welcoming atmosphere. Not only can you climb, but the gym also hosts events like a “Halloween DJ” or a “backyard BBQ ,” where all members are welcome to enjoy.
“Through setting, working behind the desk (and) serving people, we try to create an environment that’s fun,” Ava Davenport, a senior at UO who works both at the front desk and as a setter for the Circuit Eugene, said.
